Khao Yai National Park.

Khao Yai National Park

Many nature lovers in Bangkok are often looking for a place to relax that's not too far from the city. Khao Yai is always a favourite for those who are truly in need of a place where they can really get back to nature. The main reason is its relatively close proximity to the city.

Since being declared Thailand's first national park in 1962, Khao Yai has been a very popular attraction. People go there for various outdoor activities ranging from education, camping, trekking, wildlife watching, bird watching, mountain biking and even river rafting.

Access by road is easy and as you approach the park both sides of the road are lined with restaurants, mini-marts, guesthouses, resorts, lodges and golf courses. It may be that thereare too many people coming here and the forest is in danger of being destroyed.

The destruction of Khao Yai has been so heavy at times that in 1992 the government of Prime Minister Anand Panyarachun ordered the park to be closed for reforestation purposes. Some hotels and resorts as well as golf courses were scrapped as a result.

After a while, Khao Yai was reopened and welcomes tourists again, but this time there was an attempt to be more cautious about tourism development.

Yet problems still remain, especially regarding encroachment and the amount of garbage caused by tourism. Please try to be good tourists and to travel with respect for nature.

Trekking at Khao Yai

Although various points of interest at Khao Yai can be easily accessed by car, our group of young, energetic and enthusiastic trekkers chose the more adventurous path trekking.

There are five nature trails of different distances. Each trail has signposts that tourists can follow. Walkers can also request to have a park ranger from the national park's headquarters accompany them as a guide. In the rainy season, trekkers should beware of leeches. There's nothing to worry about you can use an anti-leech bag. During the rainy season you should also carry a raincoat.

Half Day Hike

The most popular route in Khao Yai is a half day walk from Dong Tiew to Nong Phak Chi Wildlife watch towers. The starting point was just opposite the park's headquarters. Followed the signs at the roadside and in a short while you will be in a dense forest. Further on is the jungle where the sounds of insects and birdsong replaced the noise of the cars on the road outside.

There was plenty of wild mushrooms, flowers, and streams to be spotted on this 5.4-kilometre trail. There were also great variety of birds, including Hornbills, Dollarbirds, red-headed Trogons, Drongos, Greater Racket-tailed Drongos and red-mottled Lapwings.

It takes about three hours to reach the Nong Phak Chi viewing point. The tower here is to help people observe wildlife at the nearby salt lick. You may be lucky enough to see wild dogs or even a herd of elephants. The watch tower is only a kilometre from the road, so it's quite a popular visitor spot.

Full Day Hike

A more adventuresome, one day hike is from the park headquarters to Heaw Suwat waterfall, a distance of 8.1 kilometres, and then to continue for another 4.5 kilometres to Thung Khao Laem.

Heaw Suwat is easily accessible by car but if you plan to test your physical strength on the long and tough route, it may be advisable to request a park ranger as a guide

The trail started very close to the office where you will be greeted with the echoing sounds of gibbons. With a guide you will not only feel safe but you will be able to observe him on duty.

The ranger will help pave our way through the wilderness, especially the parts where the trail was covered with piles of dead trees. He will be able to point out interesting plants and even wild animal tracks.

Normally the ranger's job is to search for the poachers who come into the jungle illegally to cut valuable wood or hunt wildlife. It's still a big problem for Khao Yai. Sometimes they come across the encroachers and have to exchange fire with them. Some rangers have lost their lives on duty and the world outside never hears about it. It is good to know rangers are so devoted to protecting the national heritage, and yet receive very little pay.

Birdwatchers on this trail will be delighted to see Oriental pied Hornbills, Silver-breasted Broadbills, Red-whiskered Bulbuls, Black-crested Bulbuls and many other birds. The park is home to more than 300 bird species.

It is an exhausting six hours from the starting point to Heaw Suwat waterfall. From there is another 4.5 kilometres to Thung Khao Laem or Khao Laem prairie and the only way to get there was to walk.

After three hours tramping in the wilderness, you will see the vast green prairie stretching out ahead.

Thung Khao Laem is a vast field of high grass. Legend has it that the area was once a rural community. Evidence of the existence of this community can still be seen and the ruins of an old temple remain.

About Khao Yai

Khao Yai was proclaimed a national park in 1962. It is more than 1,600 square kilometres spanning four provinces: Nakhon Nayok, Prachinburi, Saraburi and Nakhon Ratchasima. With its great diversity and abundance of wildlife, Khao Yai has also been honoured as part of the Natural Heritage of Asia. It has served as a prototype for other national parks in Thailand.

Accommodation

As you arrive at Khao Yai, go to the Tourist Service Centre for details on accommodation or to request a park ranger to accompany you on a trek.

Khao Yai offers a wide range of accommodation for visitors. There are campsites at Pha Kluai Mai and Lam Ta Kong. The fee is 30 Bahtper person.

The campsites can be quite crowded. There are public toilets and bathrooms.

Getting There

By Car:

Khao Yai is easily accessible by car. Take the Pak Chong or Prachinburi routes from Bangkok.

Prachinburi route: take highway No. 305 from Rangsit-Ongkharak road to Nakhon Nayok and follow highway number 33, then turn left at Naresuan ring road and follow highway No. 3077 and after about 10 km you'll reach the park headquarters. This route is a shorter distance from Bangkok but steeper. This route is also more scenic and has many points of interest. Heaw Narok waterfall is a short distance if you take this route.

Pak Chong route: Follow highway No. 1 to Saraburi province, then turn right to route No. 2 which goes to Pak Chong. Then take highway No 2090 for about 20 kilometres and you'll reach the entrance. The Pak Chong route is longer.

Lampung.

       Lampung

If you want to get away from the hustle and bustle of the big city, heading out of Chiang Mai for the small town of Lampung. This northern destination has abundance of atmosphere and history.

Follow route 106 which takes you along a lovely country road lined with 200 year old giant gum trees that provided great shade. As you approach to Sara phi district, the road is bordered with long orchards. Somebody once said that Lampung was famous for its beautiful women and tasty lingams. This is still true.

Legend handed down for more than 1,400 years refers to this ancient town as the centre of the Hariphunchai Kingdom. Its first ruler was Queen Chamthewee who was of Mon descent. In the late 12th century AD, the King from Chiang Mai invaded and captured the town and subsequently integrated it into the Lanna Kingdom.

Today, Lampung still retains the enchanting ambience of a small and old community. It has numerous ancient temples and ruins that present picturesque scenes of the past. It's hard to believe that a modern city like Chiang Mai is developing rapidly for tourism but neighboring Lampung remains untouched.

It is worthwhile to visit to the Hariphunchai National Museum (established in 1927) to help understand the Kingdom's background. The museum is situated in the town centre, opposite Watt Phrathat Hairphunchai. The museum's displays and exhibits include historical and archeological items, including a small collection of artifacts from the Dvaravati, Hariphunchai and Lanna kingdoms. It is quite a small museum compared to many others and is open from Wednesday to Sunday from 8.30am - 4pm.

Across the street from the National Museum to the monastery called Watt Phrathat Hariphunchai, which is the principal landmark of Lampung province and dates back 958 years.

The 46-metres tall golden Chedi there is of the original Hariphunchai style and is said to contain relics of the Lord Buddha. A nine-tier umbrella made of pure gold surmounts this Chedi, which is set in the middle of the monastery.

Outside the temple walls are souvenir shops and stalls that sell hand-made local cloth, carved wood items, postcards, Buddha images and amulets.

Past the town moat, just two kilometers away is Wat Chamthewee, situated on the Chiang Mai-Sanpatong Road. Commonly known as Wat Ku Kut, this temple was built in 1298 B.E. (755 A.D.)The sputa is a square structure similar to the one at Buddhagaya in India. Around the sputa are levels of arches holding a total of 60 Buddha statues. Queen Chamthewee was the first ruler of Lampung and her ashes are enshrined within. She was the longest living ruler in the Lanna Kingdom's history and was over 100 years old when she passed away.

Just 10 kilometers from Lampung is Pa- Sang, a small village and on both sides of the main road are notice boards saying: "Wanted, long an at good prices'', in front of the dealer's premises. The fruit is in season during July and August. There are several species which are popular among consumers.

Today, 60 percent of the longans produced in Lampung are exported to Europe and other countries in Asia.

Over two decades ago, the district of Ban Pa-Sang was a handicraft centre, famous for its hand-made cotton materials, mainly produced in Ban Nong Nguak village. Most of the shops were crowded with tourists, both Thais and foreigners, because it was the main stopping point and the only access road to Chiang Mai. Since the construction of Highway No.11 linking Chiang Mai with Lampang, Pa-Sang has been by-passed. It has now become quiet and sleepy.

The peaceful cotton weaving village of Ban Nong Nguak can be reached on the road to Li district, turn right after about 4 kilometers, following the signs

Several houses have in-house showrooms that displayed their products and you can see the local women who delicately weave hand-made fabric on wooden looms. The cotton fabric of Ban Nong Nguak is moderately priced and of designs and colours that have been improved, yet retain an indigenous feel and tradition. It is generally made into tablecloths, plate rests, drapes, cushions and other decorative items. Many items are made to order and sell in big department stores in London.

About seven kilometers from the cotton village is the temple named Wat Phra Phutthabat Tak Pha. Legend has it that the Lord Buddha once stayed here.

Further on is Ban Hong district, the site of a 1,400 years old community dating back to the Hariphunchai Kingdom, located 40 kilometers south of Lampung. It has some beautiful scenery and a delightful vista of green fields and mountains.

How to get there:

Lampung is located 25 kilometers south-east of Chiang Mai. The easiest way to get from Chiang Mai to Lampung is by bus, departing from Champak Bus Station. You can also take a blue taxi (songtaew) just south of Nawarat bridge opposite Rimping Supermarket.

Visitors are recommended to rent a motorcycle or a car for self-drive tours as there are many things to see and do. Remember to check the rental agreement carefully.

Chiang Rai.

Chiang Rai

Just over 100km from Chiang Mai and about 940km from Bangkok this is a good place visit if you want to see a hill-tribe village or do some trekking.

Getting There

Air conditioned buses leave from Chiang Mai's Bus Station No. 2 and take about 4 hours. Thai International have daily flights from Bangkok which take about 50 minutes.

The most interesting way to travel from Chiang Mai is first take the early morning bus to Fang and then a songthaew to Tha Thon. From there take a boat down the Kok River to Chiang Rai. However, be prepared for a long journey (around 10 hours in total).

Getting around

Chiang Rai is quite a small place so you can easily walk to destinations around the town centre. For longer journeys there are always plenty songthaews looking for customers.

Whilst in Chiang Rai it is worth visiting the Hill Tribe Foundation. They will tell you exactly where to find the Hill Tribe villages, which can save time, and they also have a constant supply of genuine items such as silver, embroidery, clothing etc for sale, but do not expect prices to be any lower. The Foundation is a non-profit making organization and its mark-up is small. It pays high rates to the village craftsmen in an effort to maintain tribal income to a life-supporting level, in order that they do not return to opium poppy cultivation

Mae Hong Son

Mae Hong Son

Once upon a time, on the northern border between Thailand and Burma there was a "wild west town" full of smugglers, refugees, soldiers, hill tribes and mysterious "business men". Travelling at night was dangerous and tourists were rare. The town was inaccessible except for a single road, built in 1965, winding over the mountains and onwards to Burma.

Over the years the town has opened up. A regular air service started from the precarious landing strip and a couple of decent hotels opened up. Tourists tired of busy Chiang Mai began to favors the up spoilt hill resort destination of Mae Hong Son.

This mountainous and thickly forested area is Thailand's north-western province. Mae Hong Son is 270km by road from Chiang Mai using the shorter northern route, or 370km via the southern route. During the winter, around January and February, nights can be quite chilly with the temperature dropping to 4 or 5oC.

Situated in a small valley in the middle of the mountains the scenery adds to the attraction. Any time of year, mists and clouds roll down the hill slopes to shroud the town in a soft white fog. The town is often called Muang Sam Moke, "City of the Three Mists".

It is believed that the local elephants gave the name to the town. In the 1830's a party hunting for wild elephants were sent to the area and a training ground was set up, Mae Rong Son, which eventually became Mae Hong Son. This legend, however does not explain why some of the temples in the town are several hundred years old.

Best time to visit Mae Hong Son is from November to March. During the rainy season which lasts from June to October travelling off the beaten track can become difficult.

Getting There

Buses leave Chiang Mai three times per day for the 8 hours trip to Mae Hong Son. A much quicker way to travel is to take one of Thai International's flights from Chiang Mai International Airport. Flight time is about 35 minutes. If you are flying from Bangkok you will have to change planes in Chiang Mai.

Getting around

Staying in the town is like stepping back in time, a vision of how Chiang Mai, or Chiang Rai might have been 20 years ago. Mae Hong Son is still a country town, a perfect antidote to the stress and hurry of Bangkok or Chiang Mai.

The town isn't very big so walking is a practical means of getting around during the cooler months, but can become trying in summer when temperatures hover around 40oC. You will find plenty of songthaews available for short or long journeys.